It would be so wrong to say that vintage is ‘in’ as it doesn’t ever seem to be out of style and is always visible in the fashion scene. It’s no longer a trend but a category in its own right, and rightfully so.
Technically ‘vintage style’ usually refers to clothing (or accessory) that imitates the style of a previous era. And be it clothes, shoes, bag, eyewear or even make up, vintage style is everywhere. It has managed to create its own niche. While, some would say it’s the nostalgia attributed to these designs others would argue that it’s the lack of creative imagination and handiwork in today’s tech savvy production environment. The polka dots, the high waist trousers, the flared jeans, the chunky footwear (remember Judy Garland Shoes!), the big oversized eyewear… there’s a magical quality about ‘vintage style’ that simply refuses to age. It’s almost like how one can never be too old or too young for the Beatles and the Rolling Stones.
The designers today seem to be inspired by the 70s and 80s and the eyewear that’s out there surely seems to reflect this. Tom Ford’s ‘Malin’ and ‘Madison’, Oliver Peoples’ MP-2 and Kosslyn Cat-Eye, Gucci’s Havana Square, Marc by Marc Jacob’s Angled Enamel… every brand of designer eyewear have their latest ‘vintage’ out there and everyone’s gaga about them.
And then beyond this, there’s the real stuff.. the real vintage. These are the products that were actually manufactured in the previous era. And it’s this vintage eyewear, that has seen a welcome renaissance, all over the world. Over the last decade, the term ‘vintage’ has come to describe anything at least 10 years old. In the eyewear world, vintage generally refers to sunglasses and frames made before the mid 1990’s. We often hear the term retro used but this is generally for products made today with ‘vintage inspired designs’.
Real, original vintage eyewear has seen a meteoric rise in popularity and it’s not difficult to see why. Pieces made before the mid 90’s had a flair and uniqueness which is hard to find today. People value one of-a-kind products; they feel the special feeling of discovery and value the quality and craftsmanship of vintage products.
Before eyewear production began its quick and steady migration to China, many of the world’s best brands were produced locally in Germany, Italy, France and Austria. Brands and designers which are sought after in the vintage world are quite different to those in the current market. For example Cazal is a coveted brand in vintage – Carl Zillioni designs were exceptional and whilst many designs are being replicated today it is difficult to match the quality and craftsmanship of the originals produced in the 80s.
Other notable brands which are premium in the vintage marketplace are Gianfranco Ferre and Hugo Boss. Ferre probably has the most eclectic and diverse collection of vintage designs so that today very few pieces of each model are available. Hugo Boss on the other hand whose vintage products were largely made in Austria and Germany has an army of other companies reproducing their designs from the 80’s.
The majority of highly valued vintage products were produced in Europe – mainly in Italy, Germany, France or Austria. The renaissance in vintage eyewear celebrates not only the well-known global brands but also niche brands such as Saville Row and Conti London for example which are handmade in London. And the ‘Made in Europe’ certainly carries a premium for vintage products.
Many vintage products are like pieces of art and as with art, much of what determines price is its look and feel which can often be fairly subjective. In the higher end price range – much of the value can be attributed to the rarity of the frame model – exclusive models also often have intricate details which are hard to replicate. In very simple terms, the most important factors for valuing eyewear are brand, model, condition, material, and colour — in that order.
As with every area in fashion, celebrities can also have a huge influence on the desirability of vintage eyewear brands. Lady Gaga and Elton John, amongst others, are known for being seen with vintage eyewear.
Although we are seeing several brands bring back their vintage styles like Carrera and Porsche Design – there is always going to be something enticing about a beautifully crafted original vintage product with a piece of fashion history. And that is the continuing allure of vintage that will allow it to stay timeless and sought after by fashion lovers.
