Makeup expert, Caroline Killeen, talks about what makes the metallic makeup style such a dramatic one.
You & Eye (YE): What makes metallic eye makeup such a dramatic one?
Caroline Killeen (CK): Metallic eye makeup creates drama through its light reflecting fragments. Intensify the dramatic look with a smokey eye effect to seal the drama deal!
In the Chanel 2013 Spring Summer show, models wore variations of silver and cold gunmetal resembling stunning glacial ice queens and futuristic visions. Regardless of trends, nothing reflects Spring more than a subtle and fresh metallic shell-pink wash over the eye lid.
YE: When did this style first become popular?
CK: The era first associated with metallic makeup would be the 70s. Heavy metal music became popular at this time and both, the makeup and music, travelled with gusto into the next decade. It was the 80s that encouraged crazy use of bright colour metallic and shimmery makeup was a powerful vehicle for this.
YE: And after all these years, fashionistas and makeup artists still keep playing with the metallic makeup?
CK: Creative types thrive on versatility. Metallic makeup provides many options so there is scope for the wildest of ideas. A mere flash of metallic colour can accompany almost any fashion concept. Rihanna illustrates this well. Even when choosing monotones of earthy browns and bronze, she adds a tinge of metallic hue to it!
YE: Which celeb is famous for sporting this makeup style?
CK: The latter part of 2011 saw celebs embracing metallic en masse. Alicia Keys and Evan Rachel Wood use it often, but Rihanna simply nails the glamour version of rock chic. Imagine her combination of metallic gold on top of eyelids and sparkling aqua below, intense thin black liner inside total eye rim, neon cheeks, heavy faux lashes and nude lip!
YE: What is the best thing about the metallic eye makeup style?
CK: The instant glamour it provides. When in a rush, run a soft metallic eyeliner pencil (not too sharpened) across the entire upper lash line and the outer two thirds of the lower lash line. Moving back and forth create the thickness of line you desire. Dress lashes with a building mascara to finish.
YE: Does this style suit all kinds of faces?
CK: Intense use of metallic eye makeup, beautifully worked, will certainly provide a wow factor for the evening. Limit use in the day to more earthy copper tones or deeper shades of shimmery navy. If using a fuller colour palette during the day, perhaps you can limit the area of coverage – especially in the office.
YE: What kind of overall makeup suits this look?
CK: This look can be continued with a soft, light-reflecting hint of colour on cheeks to enhance the focus on your eyes. Moon Beam by Benefit works well. If your chosen eye colour is in a neutral tone, blend some to the very top of the apples of the cheeks.
At night though be bold – turn up the cheeks with bronzer. Try to avoid strong matte lip colour. Nude crème or sheer gloss will continue the texture of the metallic makeup used on your eyes.
YE: Any pointers for choosing products for getting this look down pat?
CK: The perfect metallic eye makeup has more to do with product choice and method than the use of one specific colour scheme. Make sure the eyelids are primed – even a little foundation is enough – and then lightly powder it. A crème metallic shadow makes an excellent grip for pigment powder to follow. It will support both intensity of colour and an additional base for staying power.
Stick to professional brands as the pigment in their products is stronger. Pure pigment from companies like MAC Cosmetics or Makeup Forever will give you high intensity of colour. Invest in a synthetic applicator brush (natural fibers absorb too much product) and a blending brush.
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Makeup expert Caroline Killeen gives us the lowdown on getting the dramatic metallic eye makeup look:
Step 1: Prime the eye with a fluid primer and gently powder it to let it set well. If you are using foundation instead, use a slightly lighter colour around the entire eye area and blend in well. Include just above brow and below lower lash line. This brightens the eye.
Step 2: Using an eyeshadow brush apply metallic pigment (I’ve used Colour Options in Pink Topaz). Follow the natural almond shape of the eye as you apply.
Step 3: Soften the edge by blending with a similar coloured pressed eye shadow. (I’ve used All That Glitters by M.A.C Cosmetics). Load up a finer brush in the same product to continue colour along the lower lash line. Using a smaller brush, apply a much darker shade (matte or metallic) into the outer crease of the eye and work inwards. Then blend this using a socket brush. It will provide depth to the eye and contrast to the eyelid colour.
Step 4: Add definition to the eye by lining the upper and lower lash-lines. Work from outside in (I’ve used Smokey by Bourjois in Sparkling Mocha). If the pencil is freshly sharpened, use the back of your hand to soften the edge. This will make application more comfortable and help to provide a thicker and softer line.
Step 5: Use your favourite mascara to dress your eyelashes. Position the wand at the base of the lashes and without losing contact, wiggle it up to the ends. Without re-loading the wand, catch the smaller lashes under the eye. Now re-dip the wand and repeat the upper lashes of each eye a number of times. Mascara is most effective when it is layered.
Final look: To get a beautiful metallic eye that can help you change your office look to a party style quickly, apply loose sparkle to the outer part of the eyelid. Make Up Forever has a stunning transparent and iridescent Glitter # 3. Use your finger rather than a brush. Its natural heat helps hold the glistening metallic particles as you push them gently into the eyelid. Now … go party girl!
